Tuesday, October 27, 2009
BARREL!!!!
Entus, Abun, and Hambali were busy playing chess and kicking back some beer that Timmy brought on the trip. They were the three crew members on the small wooden boat we took out to the island. Every once in a while, they'd look up, and yell out with a rolled double r, "BARREL!!!!!!!!" Then it'd be right back to chess and beer.
This is Daniel Jones on this recent Surfing Magazine cover. I remember this wave well, it's burned into my mind forver. But not burnt onto my film...I finished my roll of film on Timmy's wave right before this one. Dustin Humphrey was ill, and in the water shooting. And he got this shot. It was the most beautiful wave I have ever seen. And I kid you not, it actually got bigger and hollower moments after this was shot. This wave grows in size as it speeds down the reef.
I first met Daniel and his brother, Mikala, on Christmas Island, Kiribati, a year and a half ago. Since then, they have both become a big part of this film. Youngest brother, Keoni, has joined in recently too.
Hangs Upon Nothing got its first public mention in the article that went along with this cover too. Thanks guys!