Saturday, December 26, 2009

spray



There are three sets of local twin brothers who surf regularly along this strip of beach from Seminyak into Legian. They all rip. There's Deduk and Dedik, Bleronk and Tonyo, and Daniel and Damien. This is either Daniel or Damien, though I'm pretty sure it's Daniel. He kept flying down the line after I shot this.

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

five-two

Fresh from the bamboo hut. 5'2" x 19 3/4" x 2 3/8". This one has a mellow double concave running the length of the board, to slight v in the tail. Glassing, fin box installation, and sanding by Redz in Bali. Tried this out for the first time on cold clean Lake Michigan waves last week, and it goes good.